There is no such thing as a 'Stain proof' carpet. Spills and stains should be treated immediately. The longer a spot remains, the more difficult it will be to remove.
1. Blot up spills with clean, white absorbent materials (towels, napkins, tissues).
2. Remove solid built-up materials with a rounded tablespoon, spatula or edge of a dull knife.
3. Spot removal agents may be necessary to completely remove a stain. The table below lists stains you may encounter and the agents and sequence for removing them.
4. Pretest the indicated spot removal agents in an inconspicuous area. Apply several drops of solution on the carpet and rub gently with a clean white towel. If color transfers to the cloth or if a color change occurs, a professional cleaner should be consulted.
5. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the cleaning agents and blot frequently. Always blot – do not rub or brush. Work from the outer edge of the spot toward the center to prevent rings.
6. If the primary spot removal agent fails to remove the stain proceed to use the other recommended agents in turn until the stain is removed.
7. Gently rinse the area with water, then absorb all the remaining moisture with absorbent towels. Place towel or tissues over wet areas with weights (books) to absorb the remaining moisture. Leave overnight. The area should be dry and the spot gone. Brush up carpet pile.
8. Prevent contact with household chemicals that can permanently stain or remove from carpet: acne medications; tile, toilet bowl, drain and oven cleaners; chlorine bleaches, mildew removers and swimming pool chemicals; pesticides, insecticides, pet shampoos, flea and tick collars; plant foods and leakage from flower pots.
Code / Agent
Stains and Sequence of Cleaning Agent
Carpet Basic Care
To reduce soiling problems: We recommend absorbent area rugs at all walk-off areas (where traffic transfers from a hardwood, vinyl or tile flooring to carpet). The walk-off rug must have a soft, non-abrasive backing and may be placed either on the hard surface or on the carpet.
Your daily program: For longer carpet life, you should go over your carpet each day using an upright vacuum cleaner having a beater-bar action, but no teeth or combs. Move your furniture at least an inch or two from its original position when vacuuming to avoid prolonged and concentrated crushing of the pile.
Professional cleaning: We recommend professional cleaning every one to two years. Before cleaning, professionals often use special pile lifters and heavy-duty vacuums. Then, too, you'll find that each service has preferred method. They range from rotary brush machines to deep soil extractors. All can be effective if used correctly. However, non-recommended cleaning products and topical treatments may invalidate carpet warranty.
Shading. After installation, some shading may be noticeable at seam areas that cannot be detected during installation. Often a consumer will mistakenly identify this characteristic as poor craftsmanship in making the seam, when in fact, what is usually the case is a slight variation in the carpet dye process from one edge to the other. Although carpet dye technology has not been able to eliminate this characteristic, it is usually far less noticeable after draperies are hung and furniture is placed, causing a reduction in light reflection.
Occasionally the problem may be traced to a reversing of the pile direction caused during the manufacturing or shipping process. When this is the case it has proven very effective to professionally steam the yarn, causing a relaxation of the original set, then resetting the nap direction by hand. Another possible cause may be a slight variation in pile height which can be improved by professionally shearing the high edge.
Seams. The construction and finish characteristics of certain carpet styles will show seams more readily than others.
Pile Crush. Pile crushing is most apparent in high traffic areas or in front of furniture. It is aggravated by soiling from traffic from shoes, animals, and bare feet. This characteristic is usually mistaken to wear. It is not actual wear, but gives the appearance due to the pile lying over. Although it cannot be eliminated, it is best minimized by regular vacuuming and brushing of the pile.
Texture Change. Normal usage will usually result in a texture change. This is usually in the form of pile crush or loss of twist in individual tufts. Pile crush is best handled as noted above, however, loss of twist can only be reduced by preventive measures, such as the soft backed rugs in high traffic area.
Shedding. New carpet will often shed for several months. This is normal and happens because loose fibers become curled into the pile and do not surface until the carpet is vacuumed.
Ceramic Tile Care and Cleaning
Ceramic tile is one product in your home that requires very little care; it is one of the easiest surfaces to keep clean. Most dirt will not even adhere to tile. NOTE: Standing water can deteriorate tile and especially grout. We recommend that standing water always be removed.
Glazed Tile Walls/countertops: Wipe with clean, damp cloth or sponge. For stubborn soil use either a window cleaning agent or an all-purpose liquid cleaner. Floors: Mop on a mild solution of soapless detergent in water. Rinse Thoroughly.
Walls/countertops: Use all-purpose cleaner on a soft cloth or sponge; wet down and allow to stand for 5 mins; rinse well.
Floors: Use a soft cloth or sponge with an all- purpose cleaner or medium- strong solution of soap less detergent. Use bleach if danger of fungal growth (athlete's foot). Rinse well.
At areas where vinyl or ceramic tile adjoins the tub or shower receptor silicone caulking, like all other caulking's, used in your new home can become loose subject to shrinkage, settling or other movement. With respect to areas subjected to water, the caulking must be regularly checked and reapplied as necessary. Failure to do this can cause extensive damage to wood subfloors.
To Remove- Use the following for the different types of stains:
Grease, oil,fats- Sal soda in water
Organic or inorganic dyes- Chlorine bleach- the sooner the better
Mercurochrome- Chlorine bleach
Blood- Hydrogen peroxide, chlorine bleach or a chlorinated (bleaching) scouring powder
Water stains, soap build-ups—Ammonia, cleaner, and vinegar
Coffee, tea, food colors, fruit juices, lipstick-Soap less detergent solution, or all-purpose household cleaning liquid; then chlorine bleach
Mildew- cleaner, chlorine bleach or ammonia
*Acids should not be used because it can cause damage to tile glazes or colored grouts
The grout used in your home is specially treated and normally does not need treating. If you find stains to be a problem, we recommend a clear liquid silicone be applied. Follow stain removal instructions (above) prior to application of sealers. Due to the curing time required for grout, this sealing procedure should not be done sooner than 30 days after installation.
Most tile used on countertops and vanities are glazed matte gloss and resist scratching. If you have a high gloss finish be aware that the surface is subject to scratching.
Crazing is the effect of fine surface lines appearing on glazed tile. Crazing is caused by aging, heating, and cooling. Since tile is a natural product and reacts to its environment, this is considered a natural process.
Normal settling will cause some cracking of the grout, particularly in corners and edges. This condition should be taken care of promptly.
Efflorescence (whitening of grout) is caused by soluble salts in gray cement-based materials settling or from grouting materials floating to the top. Clean with a grout and tile cleaner and rinse well for several days after cleaning.
Shading is characteristic to ceramic tile and may even occur within matched lots.
Cultured Marble tops and tubs
Any kind of liquid cleaner can be used such as Windex, 409, or Fantastik. No Cleaner with an abrasive or scrubbing compound should be used.
Shine or Luster
Periodically a product called "Gel-Gloss" can brighten the shine and put an added protective sealant on the top. "Gel-Gloss" is available at payless, Sutherlands, hardware stores. Once a year a high quality paste wax can be applied on the top to remove surface scratches.
Regulate hot water heater to produce water no higher than 140 degrees. Water hotter than 140 degrees can cause hairline cracks in bowl and cannot be repaired.
Marble Physical Characteristics
The element that makes marble attractive is variation in color. Some stones are very consistent in color such as granite and in other stones there are no two pieces alike. All marble is not alike even out of the same quarry. Some change color with change in moisture content or with age and/or weathering. Also, many polished stones in the darker colors will scratch white.
Marble tile are cut approximately square. It is rare to find two tiles from different boxes that are exactly the same size.
Polished stones on floor should be used cautiously because of their slipperiness and difficulty of keeping the high shine on traffic areas. Sand, dirt and gravel will scratch your marble floor. Keep your marble clean of these particles. Also, ladies with spiked heels can cause "stun marks". Stun marks are actually spider web shatterings under the polish of the marble.
Warping and Curling
Many stones change their colors, hardness and shape when they dry out after installation.
Many stones have natural holes in their cut surfaces or soft spots. The marble manufacturer will fill the holes with a filler material. Many stones have other natural flaws, which will spaul when exposed to weather or traffic; this is not a defect in the material, but a natural characteristic of stones.
Staining and Etching
Natural stone has an absorption factor. Although, many stones can be protected by sealers and some stains and chemical damage can be buffed out. Marble stones simply should not be installed in areas where they will be exposed to food, acids, oil, or wine. Even regular hard tap water (which contains minerals) can leave permanent stains. Acids and cleaning agents containing acid should never be applied to polished marble. Acids quickly etch and remove the polished surface. Mild acids such as citric acid in fruit juices and vinegar, will also etch polished marble surfaces when they are not readily wiped off.
Do not used solvents and waxes/ polishes containing color agents, or oils, turpentine, leaded gasoline and kerosene on marble surfaces. Scouring type cleaners, such as comet, scouring pads, and coarse steel wool should not be used for cleaning polished marble surfaces. The scouring action of these will quickly remove polished surfaces marble.
The best way to prevent staining in marble is through regular cleaning. Dry mop floors frequently to sweep up dirt and grit; wash them regularly with neutral soap and soft water, then rinse and buff with soft cloth. Since many stones are porous, and will absorb liquids and moisture, sealing is a process that is desirable in areas where absorption and staining are likely to take place. Sealers should be colorless and should penetrate the surface of the stone, yet allow the stone to "breathe". P19 Marble Polish can be used as a conditioner and maintenance cleaner/polish/protector. P19 is available at Kenny's Tile. For major cleaning, buffing or polishing, call Kenny's Tile for an appointment
Plastic Laminates are easy to care for. Most cleaning can be done with warm soapy water and a sponge, or with a household ammoniated liquid detergent. Abrasive cleaners should not be used. Do not set hot pans on plastic laminates. This may either scorch the laminate or create a bubble in its surface. Scorches are a permanent damage. A qualified installer can repair bubbles.
Plastic laminates are susceptible to staining from a wide variety of foods. Although, the stain may persist for several days, repeated cleaning with all-purpose cleaning agents will usually remove such stains.
Plastic laminates are not stable when exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure can cause this sheet material to shrink and pull away at seams. This problem can be cured with matching color seam filler. NOTE: Pulled seams will allow water to reach and deteriorate the contact adhesive. We recommend prompt attention to the problem.
Laminates are plastic and are therefore subject to scratches, cuts, and pits from knifes and other sharp objects.
Some shade variation may be detected at the seams. This cannot be avoided due to limitations in the manufacturing process.
A gauge variance of 10% is allowable under standards of NEMA and may show at seam areas.
Although vinyl flooring is designed to withstand routine household wear, they will lose their brilliant shine if they are repeatedly subjected to sand and dirt-especially in heavily traveled areas. Frequent sweeping will prevent abrasive action and help prolong your floor's build-in shine.
Surface dirt can be easily removed with a broom, vacuum cleaner, or damp mop.
Use a sponge mop and vinyl floor cleaner and follow package directions. Do not flood the floor. Loosen ground-in dirt with a soft brush. Do not use scouring powder or other abrasive materials, which may harm the surface.
Vinyl floor surface need no waxing. If luster diminishes in heavy traffic areas, wash floor as recommend, and buff with a lamb's wool pad. To really bring up the shine apply a liberal coat of vinyl floor finish.
Asphalt and tar
Driveways are a special hazard to resilient floors of all types. Asphalt and tar deposits on shoes may discolor a vinyl floor, especially in hot weather. A non-staining fiber mat placed near entrances will remove deposits on shoes. Also, a coating of vinyl floor finish may help protect the flooring. If it becomes discolored, the finish can be removed and the flooring recoated.
Tears, cuts, and indentations
Tears, cuts, and indentations may result from high heels, rocks embedded in shoes, dropping sharp objects, unprotected chair or table legs, or children's toys. Deep burns and cuts should be repaired by a qualified flooring installer.
Some rubber-backed mats can cause the floor to discolor in time. We recommend the use of a mat or rug that does not have a rubber or latex backing.
Protecting your floor from sunlight: to fully protect your floor, full-length draperies are recommended at such large openings as sliding glass doors. Draw the draperies closed during peak sunlight hours.
Placing furniture on your new floor
Furniture and appliances may cause indentations in your new floor unless proper rests, glides or casters are used. Metal caps and furniture rests with small, narrow load bearing surfaces should be replaced with wide protective load bearing devices.
When moving heavy furniture or appliances place plywood or hardboard panels on the new floor and "walk" the objects across the panels. Never slide furniture or appliances on a vinyl floor. Novinyl will withstand this abuse and may tear or wrinkle.
Accidental spills and stain removal. No floor is completely stain proof. Wipe up all spills quickly before they set.
| Stain Chart |
Stains/CleanSweep Urethane / Urethane/ Vinyl no wax/ Sid-vinyl
Paint and Varnish/1,5,4,3/1,5,3,12/10/13
Black heel marks/3,4,5/4,5,3/4*/13
*May dull finish and require refinishing with Shinekeeper.
*Cleansweep Urethane No-Wax
Designer Solarian 11
Glazecraft 11 Tile
Statement Solarian Tile
Citation Solarian Tile
Premier Solarian Tile
Classic Solarian Tile
Commercial Excelon Tile
Vinyl Cleaning Care
Follow cleaning procedures in order as listed on chart until no trace of the stain remains.
1. Wipe spill with a damp, clean white cloth. (Note: if spill had dried, remove as much as possible with a tool that wont scratch the floor, like a plastic spatula or nylon pad. Never use steel wool or scouring cleaners on any urethane floor.)
2. Clean spill area with full strength Armstrong New Beginning on a clean white cloth as perlabel instructions.
3. Clean spill area using Armstrong Once'n Done No-Rinse Cleaner on a clean white cloth as per label instructions.
4. Clean spill area with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and a clean white cloth.
5. Clean spill area with charcoal or cigarette lighter fluid, mineral spirits, or turpentine and a clean white cloth. Do not walk on area for at least 30 minutes.
6. If stain still shows, use a liquid chlorine bleach on a clean white cloth and repeat procedures 3and 4 or 5.
7. Clean spill area with fingernail polish remover and clean white cloth. Do not walk on area for at least 30 minutes.
8. Apply New Beginning to stain, let stand for 5-10 minutes. Scrub vigorously with stiff-bristle brush, wipe, rinse and let dry. If traces remain, rub with nylon pad dipped in solution of oxalic acid and water (1 part acid to 10 parts water). Caution, oxalic acid is poisonous.
9. Apply Armstrong Shinekeeper floor polish to restore the shine.
10. The procedure depends on the construction of your floor. Please call your Flooring Dealer for instructions.
11. Call the Armstrong Consumer Line 1-800-233-3823.
12. May experience a slight discoloration from common household stains.
13. Remove floor finish with full strength New Beginning and reapply Shinekeeper as recommended.
The finish coat on your new oak floor requires up to 90 days to totally cure. Do not place area rugs on your floor until floor is cured completely.
Do not use wax, oil based products (endust, pledge) or Murphy's oil soap. These products will give your floor a dulling appearance and also prevent an additional coat of finish without resanding the entire floor.
Apply a solution of "Woodwise" and lukewarm water with a slightly dampened mop. Do not let water stand on floors. Water can cause major damage to the wood and chip and peel the finish.
Spills should be wiped up immediately. Stubborn stains that remain after the "woodwise" solution can be removed with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. "Woodwise" is available at Kenny's Tile.
Dry Dust mop or vacuum (soft bristle) frequently to keep floor free of sand, dirt, or gravel that can scratch your new floor.
All surfaces even concrete can scratch. Scoot-n-glides are available at Kenny's Tile.
Do Not Allow:
Heavy object to drop on hardwood floors.
Heavy furniture to be pulled across the floor.
High heels or shoes with rocks embedded to walk across the floor.
Chairs or stools to slide across the floor.
Children's toys on floor if they could scratch or dent the surface.
The beauty of hardwood floors is that they are natural product. As such, they are subject to various normal conditions.
Condition - Cause
Swelling/Expansion- Humidity allows wood to take on moisture and therefore swell. In some cases this may cause a washboard effect.
Shrinking/Contraction- Heat and dry weather draws the moisture from wood, causing it to skrink. This may cause cracks between the seams.
Whitewash or pickled floors show cracks more noticeably because of the color differential.
Granite is an incredibly hard and durable, natural stone, found all over the world and available in a multitude of colors and styles. It is an igneous rock primarily composed of feldspar, quartz and mica. It was formed by the cooling of magma at depths of ten miles or more underground. It was gradually forced to the surface over about a million or so years. Where it is now quarried and produced. Its crystalline structure allows it to be polished to glass like finish, which are simply finer and finer scratches until it shines. There is no "finish" that is applied just a high quality sealer that is impregnated into the stone. It will not scorch or burn through ordinary use, and having a rating of 6 or 7 on the Moh's Hardness Scale, it is very unlikely you will be able to scratch granite with anything short of a diamond, a 10 on the Moh's Scale.
Your granite will hold its luster forever if cared for properly. Simply wipe up spill promptly, use mild soapy water to clean up. Cleaning products such as Windex or the cleaner provided by us are fine, just avoid harsh chemical cleaners. These can dull the surface over time.
Your granite has been sealed with a high quality sealer and will not need to be resealed for 1 to 5 years, depending on use and type of stone. To determine if resealing is necessary, do the water test. Place a small amount of water on the surface, if it beads up like a wax on your car your good. If it soaks in after a few minutes or so, it's ready to be resealed. Just call us to arrange a time to reseal, or with any care questions at all.
Congratulations on a smart investment in Granite Works. Your new installation entitles you to certain quality assurance standards as provided in the Residential and Commercial Limited Warranties.
You are automatically registered for this warranty through Granite Works, There is no need to fill out a registration card.
General Warranty Guidelines
Granite Works warrants to the original owner of a granite installation, as provided in the Granite Works warranty literature, that Granite Works at its option will repair or replace, without charge, such product if it fails due to any manufacturing defect during the lifetime of its original installation by Granite Works, except for damage caused by physical or chemical abuse, damage from excessive heat or acts of nature. This includes necessary labor charges needed to repair or replace the covered product hereunder.
Granite Works continues to lead the industry with a strong warranty program and, under certain fabrication/installation condition, your investment can be covered for a full lifetime of original owner to be free of manufacturing, fabrication and installation defects. This warranty is non-transferable but will always be considered upon transfer of ownership of product.
Granite Works obligation is limited solely to the repair or replacement, including necessary reasonable labor charges, of the Granite Works product purchased hereunder. No implied or expressed warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose is granted by this warranty except as expressly stated herein. Granite Works, except as provided herein, shall not be liable in either tort or contract for any loss or direct, consequential or incidental damages arising out of the use or inability to use Granite Works in Residential applications as stated herein. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This lifetime warranty coverage for Granite Works is you ultimate assurance of lasting quality. For more information about this warranty, please contact Granite Works directly.
SILGRANIT II® SINK
GENERAL CARE & CLEANING:
Daily cleaning may be done with any non-abrasive cleaner (i.e. Bar keeper's friend, Soft Scrub with Bleach, or dishwasher soap). After every use, rinse and wipe the sink dry with a clean, soft cloth to eliminate any water spots or soap film build-ups.
REMOVING STAINS AND MINOR SCUFF MARKS:
Normal Stains ~ for stains, please use a mild abrasive cleanser, along with a soft scouring pad. Stubborn Stains ~ A solution of 50% bleach, 50% water should only be used for tough, stubborn stains. Let the solution sit in the bottom of the sink for one hour; then scrub. Rinse well. Also, the use of BAR KEEPERS FRIEND (directions included on bottle or can) will help remove stubborn stains. (NOTE: with Anthracite or Café Brown, sink must be rinsed thoroughly with hot water).
BLANCOCLEAN can be used to help bring back the luster. Follow the directions on the bottle. Mineral oil applied with a damp cloth can also be used to restore the luster. We do not recommend using BLANCO CLEAN on dark colored Silgranit II sinks.
To remove Calcium Deposits (a white ring around the bottom of your sink): use LIME AWAY or CLR cleaner To remove Adhesive Labels: use Acetone (nail polish remover)
Note: Always test any stain removers in a small, non-visible location
WHAT NOT TO USE:
1) Do not use any abrasive cleaning agents or scrub pads, such as Steel wool
2) Straight bleach
3) Commercial alkalis, such as ammonia and/or caustic solutions
4) Drain blocking chemicals that involve filling the sink with water
5) BLANCOCLEAN is not recommended for use on dark-colored SILGRANIT II sinks.
Note: Always test any stain removers in a small, non-visible location
Copper Sink Care
The best way to care for your copper sink is also the simplest. Use mild soap and soft cloth when needed. As a practice, wipe the sink dry after each use, especially in hard water areas.
To help the copper product looking its best, apply a thin coat of wax occasionally. The wax will help to maintain the luster of the copper and will promote better water runoff. A simple spray on/wipe off application is recommended once a month. A pure bee's wax spray-on formula is available at most local hardware stores, this will help protect the copper surface, will not create wax buildup, and will dry clear to bring out the true copper color.
Should a slightly discolored spot or scratch appear, do not be discouraged and do not take action. Avoid waxing the sink for a few weeks. Copper has an endless ability to regenerate the patina surface naturally. With regular use the copper will regain the patina finish and will once again match the surrounding area.
To prevent discoloration or damage to the finish, avoid acidic substances left in contact with the copper surface. Thoroughly rinse the sink after working the acidic substances. Do not use chemical cleaners or abrasive substances that might remove the patina, and e sure to rinse the sink well should one of these come into contact with the copper. Do not use vinegar to clean the sink, as it is naturally acidic. Also, make sure to clean sink of tooth paste or shaving cream, these too can take the patina off the copper.
After Installation-Operating Instructions
Purging the Jet System
Carver Tubs recommends purging the jet system every three ro four months to remove accumulations of bath residue. Fill the tub with hot water (not to exceed 140 degrees fahrenheit). Add 4 tablespoons of low foaming disinfectant. Turn the air induction dial completely clockwise to off. Run the jet system for 5 to 10 minutes. Drain the bath completely then refill with cold water only. Run the jet system for 5 to 10 minutes then drain completely.
Suction Cover/ Strainer Maintenance
Clean the suction cover / strainer of hair and debris as necessary. Remove the center screw and detach cover. Clean the cover by back flushing debris from holes. Replace cover immediately, to replace line up the cover with the small notch at the bottom. The gasket must be inserted into the groove of the cover before reinstalling onto the suction fitting.
Warning: Do not operate the whirlpool jet system if the suction cover is removed. Keep hair at least 6 inches away from the suction fitting at all times when system is operating. Long hair should be secured close to the head.
The suction cover is a safety device and should be in place during operation to minimize potential danger of hair and/or body entrapment.
Fill tub a minimum of two inches above highest jet location before operating jet system pump. Never attempt to run the pump/ motor while the whirlpool bathtub is empty.
Directionally adjustable Jets
Note: Carver Tubs are equipped with a pneumatic on/off button for jet system operation. Individual jets may be turned on or off by rotating jet cover.
Cleaning the Tub
Never use abrasive cleaners on the tub as they can cause dulling and scratching of the surface. Use a wood or plastic edge (not metal) to remove spilled plaster. Spots left by plaster or grout can be removed if lightly rubbed with a damp cloth and detergent. Use paint thinner, turpentine, or rubbing alcohol to remove difficult stains such as tar or paint.
Minor scratches that do not penetrate the color finish may be remedied by lightly sanding with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. A glossy finish to the acrylic surface can be restored by using Meguiar's #10 Mirror Glaze. If this special compound is not available try using automotive rubbing compound and then applying automotive paste wax. Major scratches and gouges will require professional acrylic surface refinishing. Contact Carver Tubs for this service.
Whirlpool Jet System Operation
The following instructions apply to all Carver Tubs products, but not all features detailed in these instructions apply to all models.
All Carver Tubs should be drained after each bath and filled with fresh water for the nest use. See "After Installation" section prior to first use.
The whirlpool jet system on/off switch is conveniently located on the tub allowing the user to turn the system push down on the button. Push down on the button again to turn off the system.
The whirlpool action in your Carver Tub features 3 components: direction of flow, force of water, and force of air. All tubs are equipped with adjustable jets that alter direction and air flow.
Typical Bath Fittings
Direction: Swivel the jet nozzle to the desired angle to change the direction of the water flow. Any part of the body can be targeted for hydro-massage by directing individual jets. To circulate the water in a circular motion around the bath for a whirlpool effect adjust the jets so that they all point in the same direction.
Air Flow: two dials on the tub serve to control the air induction system. One dial indicates low, medium and high pump speeds. The other controls the amount of air inducted into the water flow. As the amount of air increases the hydro-massage action increases. Maximum air induction is achieved by rotating dial counter clockwise. For few air bubbles rotate the dial clockwise.
Note: Do not use oil or oil-based bath additives. If you want to use a bath additive use only a minimal amount of low-foaming powder or bath crystals. The whirlpool action of the jet system intensifies the foaming properties of soap.